Robe



R F A 5 Q L new Filed Aug. 22, 1939 NVENTOR r1 0 BY 8 ATTORNEY.

sewed thereto.

Patented Apr. 22, 1941 UNETED STATES; PATENT OFFiQE.

ROBE

Lee C. Saiir, South Nor-walk, Conn. Application August 22, 1939, Serial No. 291,308

4 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of and means for making shawl collars for bathrobes,

of garment. An advantage deriving from this mode of'construction is that no additional cloth is used to get a deeper and more desirable c01- lar. To obtain these effects and advantages the outer and under collars are each composed of 'two similar segments or pieces of material joined together by a center open seam union and top stitched each side of the open seam, the open seams of the outer and under collars coinciding, while juncture of the collars with other parts of the garment are also, preferably, of open seam top stitched construction. This mode of construction provides a stay which has a strong tendency to prevent shrinking or pulling as well as wrinkling or bunching.

In our preferred construction, the under collar, comprising two similar wing-shaped pieces, are cut of the self-material of the garment, of the exact fit, allowing for seams, to fit perfectly the gauge or neck line. To this inner collar, after center seaming and top stitching, is sewn an interlining or wigan of canvas or other suitable material, which lining has been out on the bias a little oversize to allow for trimming. A good substantial stand is then sewed along the lower half of the inner collar and the lining ably, by sewing a vertical row of horizontal stitches across the lower half of the under collar, while the upper half of the under collar is saw-tooth stitched across its length, the said horizontal and saw-tooth stitching also passing through the lining or wigan. The lower or neck line edge of the under collar is then open-seamed and top stitched to the back panel and the two front panels, respectively. The outer or upper edge, however, is left loose to be stretched. The stretching operation is accomplished while ironing the under collar, preferably with a steam iron, by drawing the collar upwardly. This gives the under collar a belly or fullness along the outer edge which conforms to the curve along 7 the nape of the neck and collar bone. The loose or upper edge of the under collar is then joined to the upper edge of the outer collar or facing by open seam top stitching or otherwise. The extra top stitching on both top of facing and This stand is acquired, prefer- F under collar forms a certain rigidity which helps to give a natural roll to the collar, which could be obtained by other means only by a great deal of hand work.

The accompanying drawing illustrates, by way of example, the successive steps in the construction of the shawl collar and its union with the other parts of the garment. In the drawing:

Fig. l is a View of non-assembled parts of the under collar;

Fig. 2 is a view of the parts shown in Fig. 1 superimposed and stitched together;

Fig. 3 shows the stitched parts of Fig. folded;

Fig. 4 is a view of the stitched parts of Fig. 3 attached to a lining, the latter being untrimmed;

Fig. 5 is a sectional View on the line 5-5 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. l, the lining being trimmed, and shows several lines of stitching provided in the under collar;

Fig. '7 is a plan view, illustrating the under collar, the outer collar or facing, and the upper portions of adjacent parts of the garment;

Fig. 8 is a view of the inner side of the collar and the adjacent upper parts of the garment, the collar being stitched to the garment;

Fig. 9 is a sectional view, on a larger scale, on the line 9-4! of Fig. 8;

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 9, the collar being folded down.

Referring to the said drawing, Fig. 1 shows the two-halves l| of the self-material forming the under collar, cut oversize to allow for hems or scams, the long dash. lines 2-2 indicating the ultimate lines of fold in connecting the collar to its companion members of the robe. Thetwo halves are laid congruent one upon the other and stitched together along the line 3 (Fig. 2). The parts l| are then extended as shown in Fig. 3, and the hems 4i l parted and folded under their respective parts i-l. The parts ll and the underfolded portions di are then backed by a lining or wigan i of canvas or other suitable material, cut on the bias and made over size to allow for trimming. The lining is then stitched to the self-material l-I along the lines 6 6, said stitching passing alsothrough the unlining 5. The under collar may then, though not necessarily, be stitched adjacent its outer edges to the lining, as indicated by the line of dashes 2a, and the excess of material of the lining trimmed off along the edges of the under collar. Before the trimming stage, the inner collar has the appearance shown in Fig. 4; after the trimming operation the under collar is a substantially winged-shaped member the top edge of which is substantially straight across, while a substantially middle third of the bottom edge parallels more or less the upper edge of the under collar and the outer thirds rise in a curved taper to the top edge thereof. The under collar as well as the lining is provided with a series of lines of stitches 11 extending across the lower half thereof, while the upper half is saw-tooth stitched 8 to each other across the length thereof (see Fig. 6). The under collar is then ready to be sewed to the other members of the garment, the relationship of said parts being shown in Fig. 7, and which parts comprise a back panel 9, front panels Ifllfl and outer collar or facing II.

A margin E2 of the middle third of the lower edge of the under collar is underfolded and then placed upon the back panel 9 with the self-material facing the material of the panel and alined with the top edge 9a of the panel 9 and the same are stitched to each other along the line l3 (see Figs. 8, 9 and 10, particularly). The outer third curved edges of the under collar are then alined with the top edges of the respective front panels I H] and open seam-top stitched to each other.

The upper part of the outer collar or facing H is joined to the upper part of the under 001- lar by a similar open-seam top stitch union indicated by the numeral I5, as most clearly shown in Figs. 9 and 10. As clearly shown in the drawing, a corded strip- IB is stitched in by seam I5 between the under collar and facing and extends outwardly therefrom along the outer edge of the collar.

The lower margin l6 of the outer collar is then underfolded and sewed as at I! to the inner face upper edge of the back panel 9, as clearly indifore, I do not wish to be limited to the specific I construction herein shown or described except to the extent which may be required by the scope of the appended claims.

Having described my invention, what I claim l. A collar of the class described comprising an under collar having two similar parts of outer material stitched together by a central vertical seam passing through adjacent underlapped marginal edge portions of the two parts, a lining for said under collar secured thereto by parallel rows of stitching disposed at opposite sides, respectively, of said vertical seam' and passing through said lining, said underlapped marginal edge portions and the overlying portions of said two parts, and an outer collar or facing stitched to the outer edge of said under collar, said outer collar having two parts secured together by a central vertical seam passing through adjacent underlapped marginal edge portions thereof, said seams in said under and outer collars providing the collar with a central vertical stay.

2. A collar of the class described comprising an under collar having two similar parts of outer material stitched together by a central vertical seam passing through adjacent underlapped marginal edge portions of the two parts, a lining for said under collar secured thereto by parallel rows of stitching disposed at opposite sides, respectively, of said Vertical seam and passing through said lining, said underlapped marginal edge portions and the overlying portions of said two parts, and an outer collar or facing stitched to the outer edge of said under collar, said outer collar having two parts secured together by a central vertical seam passing through adjacent underlapped marginal edge portions thereof, said underlapped marginal edge portions of the outer collar being stitched down in fiat condition by lines of stitching passing therethrough and through the overlying portions, respectively, of the outer collar parts.

3. A garment comprising back and front panels, an under collar stitched to said back and front panels and an outer collar or facing stitched to the outer edge of said under collar and to said front panels, said under collar having two similar parts of outer material stitched together by a central vertical seam passing through adjacent underlapped marginal edge portions of the two parts, said underlapped marginal edge portions being stitched down in flat condition by stitching passing therethrough and through the overlying portions of said parts, respectively, at opposite sides of said seam, and said outer collar having two parts secured together by a central vertical seam disposed adjacent said vertical seam of the under collar, said central vertical seam of the outer collar passing through adjacent underlapped marginal edge portions of the two parts thereof, said last mentioned marginal edge portions being stitched down in flat condition by stitching passing therethrough and through the overlying portions of said parts, respectively, of the outer collar at opposite sides of said central seam thereof.

4. A garment comprising back and front panels, an under collar stitched to said back and front panels and an outer collar or facing stitched to the outer edge of said under collar and to said front panels, said under collar having two similar parts of outer material stitched together by a central vertical seam passing through adjacent underlapped marginal edge portions of the two parts, a lining for said under collar secured thereto by vertical lines of stitching disposed at opposite sides, respectively, of said seam and passing through said lining, said underlapped marginal edge portions and through the overlying portions of said two parts of the under 001- lar, and said outer collar having two parts secured together by a central vertical seam disposed adjacent said vertical seam of the under collar, said central vertical seam of the outer collar passing through adjacent underlapped marginal edge portions of the two parts thereof, said last mentioned marginal edge portions being stitched down in flat condition by stitching passing therethrough and through the overlying portions of said parts, respectively, of the outer collar at opposite sides of said central seam thereof.

LEO C. SAFIR. 

